This Travel Diary is for FYC Members to post stories about interesting, exciting, disastrous, or just lovely travel experiences you have had, for everyone to share and discuss.

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Happy travels!

Forever Young Club goes to Vietnam…

Wow, where does one start…………you don’t necessarily fall in love with Vietnam and her people. Rather She envelopes you in her spell, and then carries you into her web of life.

The Vietnamese people are not only welcoming, they literally carry you into their lives. There is no malice – born of war torn days gone by – just warmth and friendship for you to share with them. What they have they will share with you, and conversely they also would like to share in what you have! This is most obvious when enjoying their services, whether it be taking your suitcase up to your room, or simply posing for a photograph you have taken of them!

The Forever Young Club Tour started in Hanoi (in the North) after a 3 hour flight from Singapore. In retrospect we all felt that this was the best end to start a tour of Vietnam, because the international flavour so obvious in Saigon (in the South) is not so prevalent here.

Our first day was spent getting to know each other, our guide Thang and driver Thong, and finished off with a cyclo-rickshaw ride around the town for about an hour, which just happened to coincide with the end of the school and work day.

As we cruised through the streets marvelling at the tangle of electrical wires - which keep the city in power- the traffic of scooters and push bikes just grew and grew. Horns, in Vietnam are used for letting the person in front know that you would like to get through, and this is mainly done by the cars and busses, so much horn tooting is heard constantly. There is no anger in the shots, just a gentle indication of their needs.

People just wander across the traffic at all times, and it is safer for you to walk through the traffic, than to stop and wait. If you do stop mid-way across a road, you are more than likely to get run over, because all the drivers are watching you move, and they drive around you according to where they judge you will be by the time they get to you. Let me tell you, it is no mean feat to get the courage to master this skill.

One can be engulfed in the culture of the people and their history very quickly here, and the bartering and pleasure the Vietnamese derive from this sport, is obvious and although it is easy to get carried away and wrangle over 20c, you can still get a bargain and yet pay a fair price for all your efforts! The quality of goods is, on the whole, extremely high, but you need to be on your guard still, because there are those who will happily substitute an inferior quality item if you’re not looking! Shopping in the ‘Old quarter’ of Hanoi was great fun – even in monsoonal rain, and we purchased much ‘designer’ leather at incredibly low prices. Pashmina’s were in high demand, and we managed to purchase them all over the country for no-more than $5! I think we all brought back at least 6 each! Art galleries are prolific and have some fabulous works in them.

The food, which still has a distinct French influence, was always delicious, and although we had a couple of people with special dietary needs, we never walked away from the table feeling anything less than highly satisfied.

As we travelled further south the table varied gradually, and we enjoyed many specialties of the regions amongst some staple favourites. Oh, if only I could cook fish and vegetables like they do! Maybe I would be able to shed some of this weight! On a serious note, though, we did not see one fat Vietnamese person in the 13 days we were in the country. But then, of course, they don’t have any Mc Donald’s!

One of the highlights of visiting Hanoi is going to see the embalmed remains of Ho Chi Minh. This is something to be taken very seriously. You are lined up and told not to talk. No hand are allowed in pockets – as this is seen as a sign of disrespect, and once in the mausoleum there is no stopping to get a better look. Definitely NO PHOTOGRAPHS!

All school children are taken to the Mausoleum as part of their education. Even the youngest pre-school children are involved, and they all walk along holding on to the shirt of the child in front of them! The authorities have no intention of reducing the power and influence the teachings of Ho Chi Minh have on the entire country, and so the indoctrination begins at the earliest possible time.

A short 1 ½ hour drive further North sees us enjoying the magic of Halong Bay. With over 3,000 islands jutting out of the sea – a result of a mystical dragons rampage – this majestic ‘natural wonder’ must be seen to really appreciate. Whilst we were there, they were preparing for a huge celebration to promote the fact that the bay has been nominated to be added to the modern wonders of the world, and as we arrived on the island of the giant cave – with its giant stalactites and ‘mites, we were warmly greeted by loud music and encouragement from a disembodied voice to vote for their Bay! (It made me think of one of those futuristic movies where the State rules). In the peak season, over 500 boats – each carrying as many people as they can fit on, cruise around this region! It is just as popular with the Vietnamese as with foreigners. We were also all rather intrigued to find that we were only around 100 kilometres away from the Chinese border. Not something I would feel comfortable about, and it was clear that many Vietnamese didn’t either! On the other hand, this enables the Chinese and Vietnamese to easily do business through the sea trading routs already established.

It doesn’t matter where you go or what you are doing, there will always be someone there to sell you what you desire. On our Boat trip we were entertained by sellers offering us copious pearls – for which the region is famous, and, as usual, much silk! When Doreen wanted 3 red dressing gowns, which they didn’t have on board, they simply signalled to another boat, which then came over and swapped some red ones for another colour! Needless to say, Doreen was happily sold 3 red gowns to take home to her daughters, and I was happily now the proud owner of some delicate pearl earrings.

We were told afterwards, by some fellow Aussies we met along the way, that they showed no interest in purchasing anything on these boats, and so the entire boat closed up, and no drinks or food were offered to them after that! We, on the other hand were subjected to one of the most delicious sea-food feasts of all time, all washed down with chilled French Chardy!

By the time we left the North, we were all firm travelling friends, and we’d learnt about each other’s personalities! We had our front runners for bartering, our ‘serious shoppers’ who we had to sometimes rein in! All our special food requirements had been sorted out, and we knew who was up for anything and who was not. John, our sole male traveller, had by this stage taken on the roll of ‘Happy Buddha’ and was enjoying the chivalrous flirting with ‘his’ ladies. By the time we had finished touring Hue (pronounces Hway), on our way South to Da Nang, we had learned of the Emperors and their multitudinous wives. After this Mr. Happy Buddha was boasting to all and sundry about his 5 wives!

It was all rather fun, and the Vietnamese, who have a very cheeky sense of humour, played along with the game for the rest of the tour. I think they actually called ahead to our new tour guides down south, about the funny Aussies and their Happy Buddha!

All over Vietnam there are businesses and workshops where the victims of ‘Agent Orange’ are looked after and in return they make products to sell. We visited a few of these and witnessed young people making the most amazing silk pictures, creating lacquered artworks, whilst others yet were carving amazing statues out of marble. Some of the silk work can take up to 3 months to complete, and we were thrilled to be able to purchase some of these. The quality of this work is something to be believed, and we were all very happy to be able to contribute in our own small way to supporting the lives of these innocent ‘victims’.

On our way south we visited Danang and China Beach( the site of the Series with that name) and boy what a beach it is! As we drove along the newly built esplanade we were informed that there are plans for over twenty eight 5 and 6 star resorts to be built. About 10 of these are already under construction. I’m sure they are all going to be salubrious.

This, sadly, is a sign of the times, and unfortunately our universal view was that very soon it will be a mini-Gold Coast. The tragedy of the situation is that the residents of these areas, both alive and dead, have had to be relocated because the government wants the development for the economic development of the country.

Just a little further down in Hoi An we enjoyed a luxurious 2 day rest at the Swiss Banhotel Golden Resort which boasts a 150 metre swimming pool right on the beach! Boy did we revel in the luxury, and laziness of the moment! I think we all thought we would like to return there one day…….. (dreaming)…..

Boy what a contrast to the slow paced North! Not only was the city considerably more westernised than the places we had recently been, but our first stop after the airport was to the War Museum.

This was 4 large buildings full, mainly with photographic details, of the American (we call it the Vietnam) war. Now, at the best of times the atrocities committed during this war are hard to handle, but when you are confronted with wall after wall and room after room of evidence of what human beings choose to do to each other, it is pretty hard to comprehend and stomach. We all left this venue in extremely reflective moods, and very sad for all those subjected to war of any kind.

A visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels followed the next morning, and with the weather pipping 33 degrees and 80% humidity, the jungle area was quite eerie – even with hundreds of other people around you! Add to this a rifle range on the edge of the reserve (offering people the chance to shoot from the guns used in the war) where gunfire was echoing through the trees, and we started to get a glimmer of an understanding of what the soldiers were up against when trying to find the Viet Com. One can only start to imagine the horrors our soldiers experienced………………….We all decided that we were not in need of travelling through the tunnels, and only Doreen hopped down them for a quick look and feel. By this time we were starting to understand the overall perspective of this horrendous conflict.

The next morning – which happened to be Liberation Day for the entire country – we set off for the Mekong Delta. Never before have we experienced such an exodus of people from the city!

Because the next day was also a public holiday (the only 2 day holiday for the year!) Labour Day, every man woman and child who was not working was travelling home to visit their families who lived out of the cities. In our Mini-bus we experienced the most amazing pilgrimage out of the city.

We sat amongst all these happy relaxed people and their children –most of whom were so relaxed they were sleeping, and observed TV’s being carried by the passenger, Slops being taken home (probably for a pig), Chicken baskets strapped to the back of the bike, and much, much more. It was generally agreed that this 2 hours was one of the highlights of the entire trip, and we never managed to get our speed above 20 kmph! All of this occurred whilst it rained off and on all morning.

Even after this amazing experience, nothing had prepared us for the magic of the Mekong Delta. How anyone could ever think they could beat the natives of this area in their own territory is beyond any of us in this group! Our boat driver was 72 years old, and was a Viet Com Gorilla during the war. He is also a grandfather of 12- one of whom was steering the boat from behind.

By this time we had become a tight knit little group who understood each other’s nuances, fears and phobia’s, and our tour was coming to an end…….only one and a half days more before we were to fly away from these fair shores.

Well we spent them SHOPPING. And shopping we did till we dropped!

The experiences we shared have given us all a memory which will last a life time, and the friendships that were forged we hope will do the same. Travelling, and sharing this experience is such a precious treat, and one I know I’ll do again. Where to next year FYC?

Belinda Green's Desert Duel 2007

My travels through Vietnam

By: Artisticlicense – Premium Member

Vietnam – the long narrow country with China, Laos and Cambodia as her neighbours - was my point of destination on a recent holiday. It must truly be the home of the conical hat - and gracious people.

Travelling from South to North I started from Ho Chi Minh City – with seven million people the traffic was hectic, noisy and flowed like an endless restless force – all part of the cities charm; although it can sorely test the naïve and somewhat overwhelming for the less than great navigator!

In between shopping and taking in the famous landmarks I took a cyclos ride, and just sat and relaxed whilst driving along a restful lake where people flocked. After this enjoyable experience we replenished our taste buds with delicious cuisine from one of the local creative Vietnamese Kitchens. What a taste sensation!

A short trip from the city westward took us to Cu Chi – a rural aspect – where in another era the Vietnam War raged. A huge network of underground tunnels - still there today - play testimony to the determination of these desperate people. This softly stirring jungle with shards of light peppering through her thick vegetation offered only the merest hint of her former tragic history.

In order to further compliment this region we took a boat from Mytho and meandered along the Mekong Delta, where we nudged up to the many islands dotted throughout the area with fertile crop growing, tropical fruit, rice and cottage industries thriving. Stopping off on one of these islands, the house owners shared refreshments and open hospitality with us. They were charming, and the experience was delightful.

I also took a sampan ride along the peaceful canals enjoying the easy, slow paddling, and just watched the fishermen setting their quirky nets for their catch of the day. The canals offer reflections of the palm lined waterways which is only mildly distorted by the ripples from the caressing paddles. Looking into the lush denseness I could well understand how well hidden the Vietnamese were during wartime.

Hoi An – out from Danang – in central Vietnam, is a beautifully preserved former merchant town. The French, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese and British influences have all contributed to its enchantment left over from these trading days. My time here was limited, and I feel that I have only just scratched the surface of her personality.... I would really like to return and spend more time exploring here.

We next took a trip to China Beach and the magnificent Marble Mountains and the ruins of Myson (formerly the home and holy land of the Champa people). Here, set within a valley and protected by the surrounding mountains we saw her monuments – a silent testament to an engineering feat – I can only find one word for this trip - STUNNING!

I was unable to visit Halong Bay due to a Typhoon, so instead, I went west of Hanoi to the Truong Sun Mountain where I was welcomed into the home of one of the hill tribe people and stayed in their house on stilts! The welcome and hospitality these people showed me will remain with me as one of the highlights of my visit to this beautiful country. The patchwork green fields of bamboo and rice fields with steep imposing mountains was none other than breathtaking and beckons one to explore the floor of the valley on foot.

There is so much to see and do in Vietnam – whatever you r interests – architecture, photography, cuisine, culture – it is heaven. I found being, and communicating with the Vietnamese people a delight, Having done a crash course in the language, I was more than comfortable trying my lessons out on my new friends, and thrilled with their delighted laughter at my attempts!

Having planned my trip well, and having a guide throughout my holiday ensured that I felt safe and secure. Confusion and misunderstandings were avoided, and translations were dealt with and flowed , giving me a worry free, and utterly unforgettable holiday.

Vietnam has an effect on you – she draws you into her alluring web of mystery and touches your soul.

As soon as I returned I was planning my return, and having seen the FYC tour on the site, I have decided it will be a perfect way to return. I have already booked my place to go in April with them. I am so looking forward to returning, and being able to share this next visit with other FYC members – it can only enhance my already wonderful memories!

If you would like to share a Vietnam experience like artisticlicense’s FYC welcome you to join us on our Vietnamese Tour which leaves in April 2008. Click here to view the details.

Kokoda

As I walked into camp on the first night I did not have the energy to smile at my companions. My mind although weary, still raced with what I had achieved that day, but more importantly what was going to greet me in the next seven.

My preparation, although not substantial, as I was a late entrant in this pilgrimage, plagued my thoughts and a very strong sense of impending failure bounced around my tired body.

Whilst sore and exhausted from that first day, my mind and soul were not done yet, as I had experienced the absolute highs and lows of human endurance in that first nine hours. Here am was walking a track in 2007 that defined Australian history back in 1942, fully equipped, thanks to our porters, and casting my thoughts back some sixty five years to when a group of young naïve, very poorly trained and equipped Aussie battlers held back the might of the Japanese army on this bloody track Kokoda.

I had always ‘talked’ Kokoda through my life but only in terms of an Australian comparison - undistinguishly comparing it to a tough football game or an aspirational challenge - to that of conquering the track.

I will never be so flippant in my analogy again.

As I looked over to my fellow walkers I could sense the same mood, and through our ranks, from a man who had recently had to deal with the passing of his wife to an ex-AFL legendary premiership coach the emotion, sense of fear and trepidation was present. I can’t help but think that those brave ragged men over sixty years ago would have been proud to see and sense the great Australian mateship and determination that evolved on that first night.

The next seven days proved to be one of the most rewarding experiences that I have had the fortune to do and it is very hard to explain or even attempt to justify to people the experience of Kokoda.

I can say though, that if you feel like the challenge both mentally and physically it is a must do.

Granger 1